In Peru

I´ve been writing mostly via email to family, but I thought others would like to hear about the trip. I´m several days into my trip with my dad, brother, and bro-in-law. Last night, we ate at the hotel where my dad was staying (my brother and I were around the corner in another place). It had a lovely little courtyard with flowering plants and hand-carved wooden tables. I ate trout, which I hadn´t eaten for many years. My memories of trout are of gutting and frying up the fish my brother and I caught as kids. It was always strongly flavored and often had a few bones. This trout was very good, though. It had a nice garlic sauce and a very mild flavor. It also came with delicious sided of mixed vegetables and mashed potatoes. The latter was nice because many restaurants here serve as sides primarily plain white rice (dry) and potatoes with no salt, butter, or other fat (though papas fritas--french fries--are also common).

This morning, we went to the Sunday market at the Plaza Constitucion in Pisac. There is a market there every day selling the typical tourist stuff we´ve been seeing all week (jewelry, alpaca clothes, handicrafts), so we wondered how this would be different. This time, the locals were out buying as well. They had closed the street in front of the plaza and they were selling real market stuff, i.e., foodstuffs. I ate crepe-like banana pancakes for breakfast and didn´t try the cooked food, but I bought a couple of mangos, and they were delicious.

After we ate, we rented a taxi, who took us to the ruins at Pisac. They consist of the remnants of an Incan city built into the hillside. The extent of the construction was impressive, and much of it remains. The terraces into the hillside were huge, and there were perhaps 15-20 terrace levels at some point. We ascended some narrow paths while our guide´s four year old daughter cantered ahead, dangerously close to steep dropoffs.

Eventually, we came to a low tunnel that was used as a defensive point to restrict the passage of enemy troops. On the other side was the temple of the sun, a small altar with a large stone and sundial. We could also see the terracing below cut into the shape of a partridge--the ¨pisaca¨

We left Pisac and continued in our taxi up the Sacred Valley. We followed a beautiful valley along the Urubamba river until we eventually reached the town of Ollantaytambo, where we will stay tonight. The balcony up the stairs from my room may be the best view I´ve ever had from a hotel where I´ve stayed. On one side, the near Andes tower seemingly to the sky. To the right, the distant, taller mountains are capped with snow. On the other side, the impressive ruins and agricultural terraces of Ollantaytambo loom just a couple of blocks from our hotel. It is magnificent. Our room is sparse but comfortable and nicely designed.

So far, this has been a wonderful trip. We´ve had ¨discussions,¨but no real arguments. Hopefully Dad doesn´t mind. Machu Picchu tomorrow, and then Dad can apparently die happy.